Zim on a Plate, Zim in a Glass
Restaurant Reviews
Sponsored by the Cheeseman,
with Press Partner The Standard

©All Zimbabwe On A Plate Reviews and Ratings are
copyright to The Cheeseman and may not be
reproduced without permission.

28 km on the Bvumba Road
Genaina Estate, Bvumba
Mutare
0735 393 272/0712 349 356

 

Tony’s Coffee Shop - A Little Shoppe called “Decadence” and “Heaven”2011
It was a lovely warm and sunny November weekend morning with clear blue skies, so what could beat a spur-of-the-moment urge to take a drive up into the lush green Bvumba mountains near Mutare to take a break from the realities of ZESA (or lack thereof!), the water cuts, potholes and non-functional traffic lights.

Of course the first section of road out of Mutare is a good reminder of what bad potholes look and feel like, but fortunately that is also where it ended... just a few hundred metres before the Inn on the Vumba, the rest of the curvy, climbing road was in pretty good shape... and the views of rolling hills, wattle and other majestic trees and small dams were stunning.  As our little car slowly chugged higher and higher into the cooler air, one could not help but be enveloped by a dreamy sense of peace and calm.  Escaping from the rat race, even for a brief moment was absolute bliss... And then suddenly, as we crawled around one of those sneaky sharp bends, there was the “Tony’s Coffee Shoppe” sign... That little piece of heaven we had heard so much about.

Having parked off the main road under proud old trees, we meandered down a tiny path and stairs into what seemed like a pristine and beautiful garden with quaint little thatched cottages somewhere high in the Swiss mountains (without the snow of course)... perfectly manicured lawns and tended flower beds, an orchard along the terrace to the front and below. What an impressive difference to the old Tony’s that used to be a little further up and over the hill past the Bunga Forest. “Good morning.  Welcome”... as Tony himself ushered us into his newly renovated and decorated “coffee and cake heaven” with huge picturesque windows onto the forest on two sides and a breath-taking view over the lawn and tops of orchard and wild trees to the North. The décor clean with white walls, simply draped tables, the quiet crackle of a fire in the fireplace (yes it was warm outside) and squeaky clean floors.  Before sitting down I had to run a quick visit to the loo... and even this private corner felt like a work of art with clever design, cleanliness and calm.

When we sat down, Tony was there in no time with a menu that must have been two metres long!  No, that’s an exaggeration, it must have been half a meter long with a list of coffees, chocolate drinks, home-made lemon or ginger drinks on one side, and a mind-boggling list of teas all down the other... most of which we had never heard of. The list of cakes for which Tony is known was very small by comparison, but “by George!”, their effect proved to completely outdo the other when we had to put our taste buds to everything.  Absolute culinary poetry!  We were not the only clients at Tony’s, and guaranteed, the serving of cakes and teas or coffees were immediately followed by delighted “ooohhhh’s” and “aaahhhh’s” before clients dared to destroy the art with wild abandon.

I ordered Tony’s delightful Cheesecake and the kids ordered a Fruitcake and a luscious and fruity Ganache. The hot beverages were a Malaysian Tea, Filter Coffee with thick, luxurious cream and Hot Chocolate with Chilli... All of which I can’t even begin to describe other than to say we were in a total heaven of chocolate, cream, flowers, silver tea and coffee pots with dainty and expensive cups and plates complimented with crisp, clean linen napkins; all over-flowing into beautiful picture of satisfied desire, enough to send us out of Zimbabwean reality even if it was for a tiny, magical two hours that went by in a flash.

Apart from being somewhat expensive, with a slice of cake hovering somewhere around $12 and average coffees and teas hovering at around $6, this really is an experience to be had before you die.  Tony is absolutely dedicated to his small business and his style, passion and love for entertaining with food is clear, not only in the taste and texture of the end product, but also his presentation and finish. This is clearly a business where the owner invests and reinvests his gains and in my view puts most other restaurants and coffee shops in Zimbabwe to shame with their far too ordinary approach. If anybody is deserving of a seven plate rating and being VERY highly recommended, it has to be Tony’s Coffee Shoppe.  Well done Tony!
Coffee Shop
5 Plates (Plus!)
Expect to Spend $18 - $22
Tony’s Coffee Shoppe, 28km peg, Bvumba Road, Bvumba
Telephone:  0772 863267

 

Tony's Coffee Shop sheer delight - and well worth the spend 2010
Situated in a small cosy room in a double storey stone under thatch house in the Bvumba, overlooking an orchard of blossoming plum trees where Simango monkeys were happily gorging themselves, we spent a pleasant Saturday afternoon in this very “English country cottage” atmosphere.

The extensive, unusually elongated menu was looking just a bit the worse for wear, but as our host did explain, he had been so busy the previous month he had not had time to refurbish it!  The cakes were not all listed therein, but part of the joy of our visit was soon to follow our scrutiny of the massive list of beverages; listening to Mine Host Tony, clearly a character, rhapsodise upon the particular pleasures and unique merits of each offering.  He delivered a rapturous, exquisitely detailed and mouth-watering explanation of each of their ingredients and methods of creation, leading us to wish that we might taste all six of them!  On consideration we opted to start by trying one each, as opulent and filling as their descriptions sounded - and indeed, just one of these ultra rich and decadent delights was all our digestions would allow for!  We were spoilt for choice on the drinks options, with an amazing array of imaginative flavour combinations, especially in the teas section; some of which I wouldn’t have dreamt of putting together!

We had opted for the "lighter" cakes of the day. Mine was an utterly sumptuous gâteau with mango and cranberry filling, topped with Chantilly cream and to accompany it I chose the Café Romano, spiced with lemon zest.  The coffee was excellent, with refills promptly, yet unobtrusively to hand, so that I was still buzzing on a delightful caffeine high, several hours later!  The combination of mango and cranberry was not one that I had experienced before, but with the smooth cream topping, created a memorable taste which slipped down very easily.

My partner chose the cheesecake with white chocolate and ginger crust with Chantilly cream topping, and an iced tea to go with it.  The cheesecake was unusual, in that it was slightly drier than any she had eaten before, but the combination of ginger and cheesecake was extremely enjoyable.  The long frosted glass of iced tea with a hint of cinnamon and just the right amount of sugar, complemented the cheesecake beautifully.

The cakes were beautifully presented on side-plates decorated with swirls of cream and fresh flowers, providing an appealing and colourful touch.  The drinks also came decorated with flowers; simple and pleasing.  So much thought and effort was put into the finishing touches on the food and drinks aspect of the experience.  The actual coffee shop décor seemed rather minimalist and might have been improved with some table decorations or flowers which would soften the overall impression and make it appear less stark. 

There were a number of guests, which necessitated some moving of tables and chairs in the small space, but this was accomplished with ease and good humour.  It did however, highlight some of the few drawbacks of the current building, which I am sure are being rectified in the design of the new one: space is limited; for those who prefer an outdoor experience on a lovely day, it is inconvenient to get to the garden; the kitchen is downstairs so access for the waiters is awkward, but in spite of this, they manage admirably to remain virtually “invisible”.   Extensive construction is being done behind the existing house, and the effort and planning that has gone into the building thus far, as well as the lovely garden, promises to make our next visit to Tony’s Coffee Shop in the Bvumba more than just a gastronomic delight.  Tony’s scored a well-deserved 5 plates.  You can expect to pay $12–$15 a head, and it's well worth it!
Coffee Shop
5 Plates
Expect to spend $10 to $15 per head

 

Magnificent Tony’s Coffee Shop – simply can’t be faulted 2009
It is always a slightly momentous decision, tea (or coffee or chocolate) at Tony’s. The drive from Mutare is not long, about 30 minutes at an easy pace through spectacular, even beautiful verdant scenery, one is assured of an interesting and satisfying repast (is that the right word for afternoon or morning tea?) in tasteful surroundings; there is at least a fair chance of observing unusual even exotic visitors. A little expensive, but not outrageously so, and always value for money. Why then the hesitation? Simply, what to choose from two full pages of exotic teas, coffees, chocolates and cakes? Impossible also to have favourites until one has systematically worked ones way through at least a substantial part of the menu. Not really a problem, though - the faint-hearted and indecisive can surrender and seek unerring advice from Tony himself.

Tony’s Coffee shop can easily be found, Wednesday to Sunday, sharing a plot with Genaina Restaurant and Gallery along the Vumba road a few kilometres before Leopard Rock. It’s well worth travelling an extra five or ten minutes, by the way, for the magnificent view of Lake Chicamba in Mozambique. While Mutare, 600 metres lower, is hot and dusty at the moment, Vumba is cool and green and lush and the mid-afternoon sunlight pleasant and warm rather than aggressively hot. The coffee shop occupies the top storey of a thatched cottage and is small, perhaps six tables and simply but tastefully decorated. Renovations going on next door suggest that the new premises will be a little bigger in due course but just as pleasant.

The handwritten menu, as mentioned earlier, is a challenge with an incredible range of herbal teas, fruit teas, flavoured teas, unflavoured teas, more ways of serving chocolate drinks than you can imagine and about a dozen different coffees.

We chose, with a little help from Tony, a chocolate Angel Delight – not sure what was in it except chocolate and cream and ice cream and meringue (I think) but very, very good; and a smooth, fragrant Viennese coffee. We had been warned that the rich chocolate cake would likely prove fatal if taken with a chocolate drink – I’ve had it before and can believe it! So both chose a slice of one of the lighter sponge cakes on offer.

Beautifully presented, both cakes and beverages were superb but it was the apparently effortless attention to detail that was most impressive. Although Tony himself was hospitably in evidence, our waiter was not – appearing from the kitchen only to serve us then again to offer refills just before our cups were drained. Not sure how they do this, I could see no hidden cameras or mirrors but it’s a clever trick.

As always, Tony’s is impressive and easily earns five plates for pleasing surroundings, great hospitality, excellent food and service and an awe-inspiring menu. Heartily recommended, but take your time and enjoy the whole experience.
Coffee Shop
5 Plates
Expect to spend between $10 and $20 per head

Spectacular Tony’s Coffee Shop lives up to expectation
2008 Review
What, you may have wondered, do the forests of the Amazon Basin and the misty Vumba Mountains have in common? Well, both are highly favoured spots to find Theobroma cacao of course, but Vumba Mountains are also a home away from home for Coffea arabica and Camelia sinensis as well. The more botanically minded will have recognised the cocoa tree, the coffee bush and the tea bush while local chocoholics will have been reminded of Tony’s Coffee Shop, now situated next to Genaina’s Restaurant.

Tony’s Coffee Shop has been something of a local institution for a while; a great place to catch a caffeine buzz, but in reality it deserves somewhat more than that. Give yourself time to enjoy the drive from Mutare up the Vumba Road, now blessedly pot-hole free; take a few minutes to admire the scenery when you get there and just slow the pace down for an afternoon.

Tony’s has moved down the road, a little closer to Mutare. The new venue, although temporary, is slightly rustic but achieves an air of graciousness enhanced by the garden outside and the table settings inside. The next Tony’s is already being built, a little behind the present premises.

You will need some time to properly digest the selection on offer. Taken through an amazing menu by Tony himself, we counted 94 different teas, including black, green, rooibos, flavoured, fruit and herbal combinations, but for us, it was the coffees and hot chocolates that were the most appealing on a cool, misty afternoon. All available, with a choice of liqueurs to rev them up on a colder day, but those imaginative flavour combinations made it difficult enough to choose. My companion selected a Café Affogato (ice cream drowned in coffee) and I chose a cup of hot chocolate – warm enough indeed, but piqued with a hint of chilli strong enough to bite on the way down. Silky smooth and very rich. One generous cup was enough for me, but the Affogato was refilled as it was emptied, with more ice cream served separately.

What to eat? Less selection here but more care needed – don’t mix the chocolate cake with chocolate drinks unless you are very strong. I ordered the fruit cake (lots of fruit with plenty of brandy and chunks of marzipan and decorated with a lovely azalea flower) and watched in awe as my partner single-mindedly gnawed her way through a slab of the famous whiskey and chocolate cake. Solid chocolate topping on an almost solid chocolate body, served with a healthy dollop of whipped cream and surprise, surprise, a chocolate filigree decoration. The diet conscious probably shouldn’t be here anyway, but there was a lighter-sounding orange and coconut cake served with homemade chocolate custard, which I could try next time.

Good company, outstanding food, a genial and attentive host and lovely surroundings make Coffee at Tony’s an occasion to be savoured and one definitely worth repeating.
Coffee Shop
5 Plates