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Laurenceville Rd Vumba Road
Paulington
Vumba
020 60138

 

OLD WORLD FEASTING MAGIC AMONGST THE BVUMBA FORESTS 2011
Not too far south-side of the very picturesque Mutare, tucked away at the end of a very curvy narrow road winding its way through dark forests on a full moon night, lies the White Horse Inn, a near-secret gem of a hotel hidden in the lower Bvumba mountains of the Eastern Highlands. Easily found, and providing all telephone lines are up as was the case, our call to make a booking was answered promptly and most politely.

Upon arrival we were warmly welcomed at the reception by none other than the owner, David Graham, who quickly asked if we would like pre-dinner drinks. We accepted of course and were promptly shown to the small, most delightful and amazingly stocked bar. Two Camparis with Lemonade and a Chivas Whiskey on the Rocks were served promptly by the very knowledgeable and friendly barman.

As we had our first pre-dinner drink sips, we were presented with the menu which allowed us ample time to peruse a vast and exciting choice of starters, main and sweet, far from the huff and puff of Harare city life. The comprehensive menu ranged from typical fine English Cuisine to rich Zimbabwean game dishes, an opportunity to see the versatility of the Chef (of over 30 years!) behind the scenes! For starters we ordered Mushroom and Bacon on Toast and a Mushroom Soup.  For the main course, we ordered a Trout, Lamb Chops and Braised Guinea Fowl in Red Wine Sauce.

The White Horse Inn dining room has a homely, old fashioned feel about it. Somewhere time stood still with the old silver all polished and sparkly, the dark wood, the crispy white table cloths and starched napkins, the miniature vases on tables with fragrant roses... The White Horse Inn is still as ‘Good as Gold’ and like a really good red wine, has obviously matured and settled down solidly, to preserve those good old fashioned values and traditions of timeless dining.

The starters were simply yet pleasurably presented, with the traditional English cream base of the fresh mushroom soup (certainly no packet ingredient here). The garlic buttered Mushroom and Bacon on toast filled with flavour and textures. We had the pleasure of owner David Graham checking on our starters (and every other table) to see if our evening was going on well.  Apart from having ascertained that the Chef had been with the hotel for over 30 years, the waiters in their crisp white and burgundy-red outfits have apparently also been with the hotel for a considerably long time! Obviously nothing beats experience and indeed we looked forward to our main course with much eagerness.

The wine menu was extensive and, like any other Zimbabwean Restaurant nowadays, a reminder of the success of the South African wine industry.  The Bar tender showed his experience in dining and wining by suggesting the wines that would go with our food - Cab Sauv for the Lamb Chops,  a Sauvignon Blanc for the Trout and maybe a Merlot for the Guinea Fowl?  All of us being red wine drinkers, we settled on a bottle of Graham Beck Cabernet Sauvignon Game Reserve Edition, which went fabulously with the Lamb and Guinea Fowl especially.

The three main meal portions were ample and prepared as expected with absolute delight and beyond our expectations. Mention must be made of my Guinea Fowl in Red Wine Sauce order in particular. It had a definite game taste and texture to it, mature with the fruity taste of the wine sauce and sweet fruit jelly on the side.  The vegetables too need special mention here: A selection of fresh, colourful  and crunchy steamed vegetables with a light butter film over, individually served in old hotel style straight from the silver dish by the waiter.

The dessert menu had little traditional delights such as homemade Ice Cream, Cream Caramel, Apple Pie and Cream, Fruit Salad and Peach Melba which are very difficult to resist.  A Cream Caramel and an Apple Pie and Cream were ordered by the other two while I kept my taste buds to the delights of the last sips of the Graham Beck and the Guinea Fowl.

Regrettably not having booked for what might very well have been an equally enchanting and magical night’s stay at the hotel, a most satisfying and old-world magical dinner evening was rounded off with a satisfying dose of good, strong and black Bvumba and Irish Coffee before mounting our iron steeds on the road back to Mutare under the light of the full moon.
A night and dinner well worth remembering... And would we do it again? Hell yes!!!
Deluxe Family Restaurant
5 Plates
Expect to spend between $15 - $20 per person

 

 

Excellent cuisine, service, surroundings, at White Horse Inn 2010
Tucked away in the Bvumba, about twenty minutes drive from the centre of Mutare, White Horse Inn is one of the gastronomic jewels of the Eastern Districts. We took a break from the emotional hype of the SA World Cup and retired to this favourite hideaway for lunch.

Although we were not the only guests, there were plenty of tables to choose from in the slightly old-fashioned dining room and we were able to make the most of a brief spell of warm, sunny weather, choosing a table looking over the green and verdant grounds. A bowl of bright, fresh azaleas on each table balanced the rather formal atmosphere.

White Horse Inn has always been highly regarded for the extent of its menu, and today was no exception. Although nothing much for a dedicated vegetarian (unless perhaps an omelette sans bacon) it was difficult to make a choice between beef, pork, chicken, sea-food, fish or venison. I eventually selected an avocado seafood cocktail, followed by baked ham and vegetables as a main course while my companion chose a bowl of celery soup followed by braised oxtail and haricot beans, all washed down with a bottle of smooth South African Merlot. All just as it should be – the avo creamy-ripe, the sea-food flavoursome and tangy. The ham, served with a brandied peach was succulent, tender and generous; accompanying vegetables crisp and tasty.

The sip I had of the celery soup was delicious, served with a fresh piping-hot roll. Oxtail should never be under-cooked – this one was cooked to perfection, the meat falling off the bone and very tasty. Normally a very rich dish, sometimes overly so, I suspect that the chef may have used beer or milk stout rather than the more traditional red wine for the gravy. Both the oxtail and the ham were complemented by the Obikwa Merlot although there were plenty of other excellent possibilities on the wine list to choose from.

Our host had set a very high standard for starters and particularly the entrées, which we felt the desserts did not quite match. The Chocolate Mousse was light and fluffy, but not as rich or chocolaty as I expected; the Apple Crumble good but not outstanding.  Perhaps the fruit salad on offer would have been a better choice.

Service throughout was of a high standard, attentive and friendly without being at all obtrusive. Our table waiter was able to answer questions about the food and very patient as we took our time to make up our minds, and we were able to retire with a cup of Vumba’s own Coffee in front of a log fire in the lounge to begin the digestive process. Not that we needed it, but the restaurant also has a very fine selection of fortified wines and spirits.

A meal at White Horse is not a matter to be undertaken lightly. The restaurant has a well deserved reputation for excellent cuisine thoughtfully selected and well prepared, but as with all good restaurants the food is complemented by the service and surroundings. No problem with awarding five plates to David Graham and his team.
Deluxe Family Restaurant
5 Plates
Expect to spend $18 to $25 per head

 

White Horse Inn - excellent food, value, wine list
2009 Review
Those in the know tell me that there has recently been spirited debate amongst reviewers and restaurateurs alike as to whether hotel restaurants should have their own special category or not. Those favouring a new category recognise the extra hassles that out-of town hoteliers particularly, may have in sourcing food and beverages and the added pressures of running a hotel.  But many of the hoteliers resent the suggestion that they even need special treatment and feel that they should be competing head-to-head with the stand-alones.  I don’t know which camp David Graham belongs to but to me, he and White Horse Inn are a strong argument for keeping things just they way they are.  

This restaurant would be perfectly placed in the new Deluxe Family Restaurant Category which is currently under debate, though I recently gathered from the Zim on a Plate crew that so far this has scarcely attracted any interest from those currently in the Family Category.  Pity, as it certainly would serve a purpose and be the perfect fit for some restaurants, this, a case in point.  I have not stayed at the White Horse Inn for many years and couldn’t comment on what goes on, on that side of the establishment, but the restaurant consistently delivers a really good meal in the Family Restaurant category.

All our interaction with staff, from the receptionist to the Maitre d’ to the Wine Waiter, was cheerful, courteous and friendly.  The White Horse menu is clearly aimed at the serious trencherman and not for the indecisive. The Powercut Special, which changes daily, is always well-designed and not to be dismissed lightly, but the rest of the carte offers an excellent selection of starters, soups, fish, poultry, beef, lamb, pork, or venison. Unusually, two of the main courses were not available.  There were options for vegetarians although perhaps these are not as exciting as the meat dishes (Kids favouring the ubiquitous hamburgers and chips will no doubt be disappointed!).

After some thought, my partner selected a seafood cocktail as a starter, which she enjoyed. Braised impala for the main course was excellent, cooked until very tender and served in a rich red wine sauce which complemented the flavour of the venison very well.  I had ordered crumbed garlic mushrooms as a starter, followed by steak and kidney pie.  The mushrooms were very good, better in my estimation than the seafood; well dotted with chopped garlic and served with Sauce Tartare.  The slice of steak and kidney pie was topped with a flaky crust, the meat as well cooked and tender as the impala, all in a succulent, aromatic gravy. Heaped servings of vegetables rounded off a generous main course.

The wine list, as well as proffering  a decent selection of local and imported wines, also includes a vast range of other liquor options as well as soft drinks.  It boasts four sherries, four ports, no less than ten brandies from which to choose, including genuine cognac, seven single malt options, ten liqueurs, even six different rums.  Such a very well stocked bar is much to White Horse Inn's credit.  I vote that this wine list goes forward as a finalist for Wine List of the Year, and think it might be a much over-looked gem!  House Wines are also offered by both carafe and glass, albeit the local white offered in this format did not inspire us as much as the bottle we instead opted to order.  The wine waiter was kind enough not to raise his eyebrows at our choice of a well chilled and properly presented local white, rather than the more traditional red that the meal really demanded!  Prices were sensible, corkage (a dollar for local vintages, two for imports) modest enough to encourage diners to bring their own special choice should they feel the need.   

Very seldom does one have to complain about too prompt attention from the waiter, but possibly a few moments longer to savour the moment and shake down the main course and the dessert wouldn’t have gone amiss!   Nonetheless, ten out of ten for diligence and effort!  For dessert we selected fruit salad and a sherry trifle – both good (but perhaps ideally, the dessert menu could include something light and fluffy or perhaps something tart to balance the meal?)  Then, we enjoyed a leisurely and justly famous Vumba coffee to complete.  

In conclusion, White Horse Inn would be an excellent choice for someone who enjoys generous servings of well-cooked, traditional English style food in comfortable, slightly formal surroundings.  And excellent value for money!
Family Restaurant
5 Plates
Expect to spend $20 to $25 per head

 

White Horse Inn - a fine culinary reputation securely retained!
2008 Review
No point in phoning, but the current national dearth of “FTs” convinced us that we should take a chance, and indeed there was a vacant table or two at The White Horse Inn last week. Found a little off the beaten track along the Laurenceville Road in the Lower Vumba, White Horse Inn is a fairly modest hotel with a reputation for an excellent kitchen. Is it deserved?

Cheerfully welcomed by the receptionist, who handed us over to the Maitre d’ we elected not to stop off at the bar but go straight through to the dining room. Polished mahogany tables, slightly old-fashioned (in the best possible sense), this dining room looks like a place where food is taken seriously, and indeed there was a party of American nuns who certainly seemed to be seriously enjoying their meal. They later left with a gentle hint to us not to keep the waiters up too late.

We were shown to our table, ordered drinks (slight miscommunication quickly fixed by the barman) and had a good look at the menu – which boasted soup, omelettes, fish, chicken, duck, beef, lamb, pork and venison! Yes, all very good but what of this cornucopia was actually available, we asked somewhat sceptically. Well, all of it actually. I ordered Sherry Consommé, Chicken Kiev and Fruit Salad – my companion chose Pâté Maison, Roast Duckling and Chocolate Mousse and both of us chose a local dry white to accompany.  To my mind, an outstanding selection of main courses and a good selection of starters but not much for vegetarians nor, in the dessert section, for the sweet toothed, which suited my preferences exactly.

A bit of a wait for the first course, but we were able to keep the wolves at bay with the house white – available by the glass, and excellent fresh bread rolls and butter – better than most hotel rolls, I have to say, and no problem with re-supply either. My soup was good, more than a hint of sherry, although the bowl should have been warmed. The pâté was rich and creamy, served with a garnish of salad but a third slice of home made Melba toast would have been needed for the ample serving if we had not already been served extra rolls.

Both main courses were generously served with a good selection of vegetables cooked slightly long for my al dente preference but pronounced, like Baby Bear’s porridge, “Just Right” by my partner who was brought up on that Great British staple of overcooked cabbage. The Chicken Kiev, too, was a little overdone but well flavoured with garlic as I was later regularly reminded. The duckling was very good, tasty and just as succulent as it should be. Very satisfying.

Desserts too were good – fruit jelly for me, my companion’s chocolate mousse light and creamy, perhaps not quite enough chocolate for a confirmed chocoholic. All rounded off by the excellent Vumba Coffee, difficult to get now, and guaranteed to keep you awake for the drive home along the potholed road thoughtfully provided by the Council to settle your stomach.

All in all a very pleasant evening and one which I would happily repeat, as would the other diners judging by the comments we heard. Staff and proprietor were attentive but not intrusive. The décor good and solid; the food Cordon Bleu rather than Cuisine Nouvelle and an excellent menu, very much to my taste. A fine reputation securely retained by proprietor David Graham and a comfortable four plates at the close of 2008.
Family Restaurant
4 Plates