Zim on a Plate, Zim in a Glass
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Kezi Road
Bulawayo
0772 211 050

 

Matobo Hills with a meal on the side 2011
The Matobo Hills is part of a World Heritage site.  One of the reasons for its declaration is, in part, the majestic collection of granite boulders and dwalas that litter the landscape.  It is a truly magnificent place.  It is within this setting that the restaurant at Camp Amalinda resides.

Camp Amalinda is approximately 40km outside of Bulawayo along the Kezi (also know as the Matopos) Road. A short dirt track off of the single strip tar meanders towards the camp.  If you are lucky, you might even see zebra before you reach the camp, giving a clear indication that you are now in the bush and city life has been left behind!

We were welcomed by the Camp staff and were told that lunch would be served by the pool; if only we had bought our swimming costumes, although to be honest it was probably now just a bit too cold to swim!  The pool is built on the downward slope of a large granite rock, which forms the natural bottom of the pool.  The pool in turn overlooks a vista of trees, rocks and hills.  What a view in which to enjoy our meal!

The restaurant offers a set meal of lunch and dessert, which can be booked and paid for in advance at the Bulawayo Club.  Special dietary requirements can be taken into account at time of booking, but otherwise there are no actual choices offered.  If guests are staying at the lodge, then the meal is timed to coordinate with their activities.  Time is not an issue however as the spectacular view, outside bar and pool can occupy your attention for more time than you realise.

The meal duly arrived, but with the kitchen being about 100m away, it arrived cooler than I would have enjoyed.  The meal itself was satisfying albeit less than spectacular, and certainly not up to the standards of the view that we were currently experiencing.  To my dismay, noodles from a packet formed part of the meal. The wine list looked impressive, but might just have been the best wine list in the world, as none of the selection was available, with their own imported house wine being the only option.

Dessert was an improvement on the main course, but our proximity to the kitchen again played havoc with the desired temperature.  I should point out, however, that there is a covered dining area within the lodge complex much closer to the kitchen; it was just that today we were being served by the pool.  

The process of extracting coffee from the waiter seemed to draw on longer than necessary.  It was almost as if the waiter was doing us a favour, and possibly, he was!  I could not establish if tea and coffee was included in the set price or not, and our coffee did not appear on the drinks bill.  Once received, I did consider if the effort had been worth it!

You could not imagine a more spectacular setting in which to satisfy your hunger. Even the dining area within the lodge complex is elevated with the same panoramic view.  Given that the setting is magnificent, it does not need to be a substitute for the expectations of the meal.  There is an opportunity here to combine the wonderful scenery with a memorable meal; unfortunately one side let the combination down!  You can go to Camp Amalinda for a spectacular view with some food on the side, but you might be disappointed if you go for a spectacular lunch with the view included.
2 Plates
Expect to spend $20 to $35
Kezi Road  
Matobo

 

Camp Amalinda for a different eating venue 2010
About half an hour out of Bulawayo on the Kezi Road, hidden amongst some stunning granite dwalas (collections of gigantic boulders) nestles Camp Amalinda. Once off the tar road, the bush track up into the hills is a bit rough but with careful driving a non 4 x 4 can easily make it to the car park. From there, the walk up the stone stairway to the main reception area does induce a bit of stenorous breathing (that is, huffing and puffing!), but with a number of stops along the way to take in the atmosphere and discover all the hidden treasures, the top is reach without a heart attack.  All the nooks and crannies, such as the library, fire pit, bar and dining room are intricately linked by series of steps, both up and down and tucked away under towering rock faces.  Luckily the dining room is set a bit apart from this and is under thatch which must be wonderfully cool in those hot October days but on a very chilly May lunchtime could have done with a roaring log fire.

However, we were greeted by our host and immediately offered a blanket which did the trick, before being shown to our seats.  As Camp Amalinda is foremost a lodge, ‘day trippers’ have to fall in with the guests and so on this particular weekend there were two other couples seated at the long dinning table.  Eddie the waiter took our drinks order, and at the same time confirmed that lunch would be lasagne followed by fruit salad. Our drinks arrived promptly and were shortly followed by piping hot lasagne in individual ramekins and side servings of salad.  The lasagne was a bit unusual as it was based on chicken but besides that the flavour was good and it was a good idea to have the ramekins as it kept the dish wonderfully hot.  The green salad was fresh and crisp, as was the coleslaw – no sitting around in dressing for hours. This was followed by fruit salad, which unfortunately was not made from fresh fruit.  We were then offered tea, ordinary or rooibos, and coffee.

After the leisurely lunch, we decided to have a look around and went up to the bar area.  This is dominated by a 10 metre rock wall and a wonderful view out over the Matobo hills.  Most of the relaxation areas feature built-in seating with large cushions covered in bright ethnic fabric.  The conventional furniture is mainly dark teak but also with the same style of cushions – certainly somewhere to curl up with a book or drink, depending on the weather. There are African artefacts everywhere and hidden carvings on stair rails and posts.  We then descended from the heights to take in the remainder of the camp.  Most of the lodges are very cleverly blended into the rocks and so it took us some time to find the guest toilet.  But the highlight of Camp Amalinda must be the ‘rock pool’ – the best swimming pool I have seen which uses only natural rock - it must be so tempting on a hot and sunny day and by the size of the poolside bar and entertainment area, is well patronised.

It is best to book in advance via the Bulawayo Club so that the Camp can cater for extra numbers. To make a special trip out to Camp Amalinda is worthwhile for a Matobo experience and for a different eating venue and one can always incorporate a game drive in the near by Matobo National Park.
3 Plates
Expect to spend $15 to $20

Magnificent Camp Amalinda retains 5 plate rating 2009
The drive out to Amalinda from Bulawayo was in itself a treat, the outline of the Matobo Hills beckoning us closer and closer.  We were welcomed with cold drinks and fresh, cool facecloths and although we hadn’t travelled far, it was a scorcher of a day so this gesture was most appreciated. There was some confusion about our bookings which had been arranged in the Bulawayo office but with the staff’s cheerful touch it was easily sorted out and we were shown to our respective rooms.  One of us had the ‘room with a view’, nestled up amongst the highest boulders where the eye could roam over the tree tops and beyond and never tire of the vista.  The other room was the family suite on the flat but set among the trees and rocks and special in its own ‘forest-like’ way.

Despite the ZESA problems that plagued the Camp the whole time we were there, tea and coffee was always on hand, and the ordering of drinks was no trouble to Eddie, whatever the time of day or night.  Breakfast was very relaxed with cereals and yoghurt and fruit available early for the walkers and birdwatchers – not that the latter had to go far from the dining area to watch the mocking chats bouncing over the boulders, or other species foraging in the tree tops at eye-level. Later, a full cooked breakfast could be ordered and enjoyed at leisure.

During the day one could laze around the pool or enjoy a massage and/or other relaxing, beautifying therapies. This ‘parlour’ or ‘salon’ must be the only one of its kind in the world.  Set among lichen-clad boulders one has the feeling all is primitively peaceful and uncluttered and yet there are the ‘hot rocks’ and steamers and other modern contraptions that promise to make one feel good.  There are good walks around the property and the views from the top of the rocks are stunning – a real ‘wilderness of granite’.

The main meals were a set menu – the Amalinda Chef having the knack of turning even a simple dish into something fit for royalty.  Of course we were always in the mystical presence of Lobengula so that was royal enough!  Lunch was ready for those returning from their game-viewing travels or rhino-walking and always well appreciated, every last crumb destined to put back the calories lost on the earlier walk!  On occasion, it was served down at the rock pool, where we shared it with plated lizards, colourful skinks, elephant shrews (the Pinocchio of the rodent world) and even with a sand snake!

Dinner was announced each the evening by gentle drum beats, taking one back in time....with Lobengula once again.  Discreet lighting warmed the granite walls and with this softening of the rugged ambience, it was impossible not to enjoy the evening.  The table was always beautifully set whether there was a crowd or just a few of us, with Eddie in attendance with a wine list that boasted a really good selection of imported wines.  He and Zeph would then present an artistically arranged starter, followed by a good wholesome meal that somehow matched one’s appetite – not too much and not too little.  Some delicious dessert always followed, sometimes an ‘Amalinda Surprise’ and always worth the ‘wait-and-see’.  Tea and coffee around the table was just like a family gathering, each telling of their day’s highlights and ending off the day with plans for the next. Comfortable beds ensured a good night’s sleep in the watchful company of delightful geckoes.  All round, Camp Amalinda provided us with a most enjoyable experience, whether dining, relaxing, or exploring the beautiful Matobo.  Whilst we stayed a few nights, day visitors are also welcome there, so you can indeed by prior arrangement head out to this delightful place for a delicious lunch or dinner, provided the camp is not so full that extra mouths cannot be catered for.
Deluxe Restaurant
5 Plates

Camp Amalinda – only a pleasure! 2008
I first “bumped” into Camp Amalinda via the Internet one day when I was looking for a local getaway for the weekend. The actual pictures were so enticing that it has been on my “to do” list for some months now. The camp is built into the Matobo Hills in the Matobo National Park just outside of Bulawayo and was built some 17 years ago by a serious visionary.  Anyway to cut a long story short, I finally had my chance of a visit, and what a visit…..

We were driven into Camp Amalinda by Tinashe, a wonderfully polite gentleman with realms of knowledge of where to Tourist Shop in Bulawayo. I must quickly add that we stopped off at a small local shop called “AFRO DISIAC” which is run by two lovely ladies with a sense of the unusual in the way of artifacts
etc. A visit is a definite must to this lovely shop, restaurant, veggie and plant shop. To get to Camp Amalinda we had to drive over rocks, hills and valleys whereupon we eventually arrived at this open thatched rondaval. We were greeted by the Camp Managers Billy and Pricilla as well as all the staff to whom
we were introduced. We were given lovely cloths with which to wash our hands, a refreshing punch and some food. What a great welcome! Billy gave a low down on the Camp, dining arrangements, game activities, and then allocated rooms to us, which I might add were not even to be seen, as they were so well hidden amongst the rocks and caves. When I did see the rooms I was amazed at how well concealed
they all were and how well they fitted in with the landscape. Each room is an ndividual -there are 9 rooms all in all – included in these are two honeymoon suites “The Lobengula Suite and The Rhodes Suite”. We had “The Lobengula Suite” befitting of my husband as he always claims to be an ancestor of King Logengula's, due to the size of his stomach. The room was tucked away at the top of the hills with an outside viewing platform that overlooked the swimming rock pool and the distant hills. Beautiful is the only way to describe this setting. The Camp offer game viewing, walking expeditions, visits to the sites of the San (Bushmen) Tribe's paintings, visits to the “View of the World – Cecil John Rhodes Grave”, visits to an African Homestead of the Matabele, Swimming Rock Pool and last but not least “the Heritage Spa” for those luxurious spa
treatments – facials, pedicures, reflexology and massages.

Dinner that night was at about 8 pm and we all gathered in the Wine Cellar (Cave) for a pre-dinner chat and drink. The drums announced dinner and we went down into the dining room which is again built into the rocks. The settings are just amazing – even I cannot describe them fully – and the dining room table
was large enough to seat us all. Our wine was served to us by efficient waiters; homemade bread rolls did the rounds (fresh, soft and warm) with butter. Our drinks were kept topped up during our dinner as well as our water glasses – a nice touch!

Our meal that night was truly once of the nicest I have had in a long time and what made it even more remarkable was that we were literally in the middle of nowhere and here we were having a meal fit for Kings. Harare …wake up!  Our entrée that night was a Butternut Tart with a Balsamic Reduction that was
delightful. The pastry was crisp and the flavours were delicate and delicious.

Our main course was this wonderful fish (Tilapia Bream, I think) served in individual frying pans. The fish was cooked to perfection and was topped with what appeared to be tiny diced carrots and a cucumber pickle - a variation on Tartar Sauce, very enterprising to say the least. Our dessert was an old time
favourite but just as good as my Afrikaans Auntie's used to be as a child – a Lemon Meringue Pie made with lemons, condensed milk and biscuit base – the best. What a meal as were the rest to come. Our breakfasts were beautifully presented with again everything cooked properly, lovely fresh muffins, pancakes,
plenty of coffee, tea, juice, cereals etc. Lunches were served to us down by the pool  - we had lunch the one day that consisted of a delicious  Chicken Lasagne and salad  and so it went on, I definitely came back with two inches on my behind!! All in all I must say that a visit to this delightful Camp that is owned by Philip and Sharon Stead is well worth a trip for all locals as well as our international travelers. I hear via the grapevine that they have purloined the Historical Bulawayo Club and are in the process of revamping it – watch
this space!!
Deluxe Restaurant
5 Plates