Zim on a Plate, Zim in a Glass
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50 East Road Avondale
Avondale
Harare
308164 077 232 754
Fabulous Fish at The Fishmonger! 2012
We arrived for a late lunch on a wet Friday. The blinds on the verandah were down to shelter diners and the restaurant, with two long, full tables on the verandah, was very busy and noisy. The Fishmonger has long been a favourite of mine, due to its no frills approach to dining, and bearing in mind our distance from the sea, really excellent fish. The menu is a laminated card and specials are written on strategically placed chalk boards. The wine list also comes as a laminated card. Most admirable is the inclusion of a children’s section on the menu and a note on the bottom of the adequate and very reasonably priced wine list stating that no corkage is charged.
Suffice to say every kind of fish is available, including our own Tilapia, in addition to which there is a variety of meat dishes for those so inclined – the meat special of the day was Lamb Curry, and when I visited previously there was the unusual offering of Rabbit Stew. Unless there is plainly nothing that appeals, I inevitably choose from the Specials in any restaurant. The day’s choice was Butterfish, Baby Cob or Pollock Fillet. Swayed by my antipathy to eating fish which stare me straight in the eye, not to mention the delicate surgery needed to take it off the bone, I opted for the Pollock Fillet ($15) and my companion the Butterfish ($15) which had just one large, easily managed centre bone; with chips for my companion and salad for me.
For starters we chose to share a portion of Fried Halloumi ($6). Service was slow, but this was understandable due to the two large tables needing to be served at the same time, and the waiters’ relaxed and pleasant demeanour under pressure was commendable. Three perfectly fried pieces of Halloumi arrived but no sauce such as chilli jam to “zing” our taste buds. Perhaps this is taking the “no frills approach” a bit too far! We helped ourselves to cutlery and paper napkins from the container on the table, but decided against the large, not very tempting bread rolls.
Our wine arrived, an unchilled bottle of Zonnebloem Sauvignon Blanc which I had no hesitation in returning, and which was cheerfully replaced by a well chilled Nederburg SB ($14) complete with ice bucket.
Both main course fish dishes were perfectly cooked and my Pollock, now widely regarded as the eco-friendly alternative to endangered Cod, had managed to retain the flavour of the sea which indicated that The Fishmonger has got its storage (despite power cuts) well organised. My companion’s chips were however disappointing, being of the thin, limp “McDonalds” variety, rather than the thick, freshly fried, crisp variety “that mother made”! My salad, although substantial and fresh was unremarkable; both dishes sported a giant and juicy wedge of lemon but no other decoration.
The rain continued unabated and sheltered as we were, and very well fed, we were in no hurry to leave, so unusually we ordered a dessert each – mine “Pudding Marie” ($3) and my companion, the iconic “Crème Caramel” ($3). Both were up to standard and mine nicely presented in a glass showing the layers of Marie biscuits and gooey high cholesterol filling not unrelated to a cheesecake!
Not only was it wet, it was also cold, so we pushed the boat out and had a delicious Irish coffee ($5). It was now quite late and the large tables had left, but we were not the last, and there was a commendable lack of pressure from the waiters for us to venture into the wet outside.
On previous visits to The Fishmonger I have considered it pricey, but that was some time ago, and I found its current prices to be within the norm for the high quality of food offered. As a family restaurant, it “ticks all the boxes”. Those to whom presentation is an important feature of their meal might be disappointed, but for me, the cheerful ambience at The Fishmonger and the fabulous fish, ensured that I will definitely return in the near future!
Family Restaurant
4 Plates
Expect to spend $20 to $35 per head
50 East Road Avondale
The Fishmonger 2011
In 2007 The Fishmonger Restaurant in Avondale won The Family Restaurant of the Year. That was a tough year to win anything and praise should be heaped upon the management and staff at Fishmongers for earning such prestigious recognition in times of trouble. When I was asked to review Fishmongers I leapt at the chance and immediately booked a table for dinner. Fresh fish is now readily available in Zimbabwe and is imported directly from Europe and other shores that are lucky enough to have oceanic waters lapping at their coastline. For fish lovers in landlocked Zimbabwe, your time has arrived!
The interior of Fishmongers has a charming aquatic feel and, in the dark of night, the terrace outside the restaurant could be any little bistro by the sea. The menu offered a good variety of all things marine with a smattering of alternative dishes to whet the appetites of meat eaters among us. It was reassuring to see fruit juices on the menu in addition to the usual carbonated assortments. The wine list was limited but some good wines were on offer and the prices comparable.
One of our starters was smoked salmon and, although we were offered more exotic choices from the daily specials board, it was simply delicious but sadly marred by its very poor presentation. The sinister heap of pickled mussels on the side was an unwelcome distraction. What was I saying earlier about fresh fish being readily available………? The chicken livers were average but the accompanying sauce was extremely delicious. The Halloumi cheese starter that both children opted for was crisp, golden and morish.
In between starters and main courses the diverse mix of music kept us entertained. Main courses were delivered without delay and up to this point everything was going to plan. You could’ve heard a penny drop from the obvious disappointment at our table when they arrived. The seafood platters of un-breaded calamari rings were slick with oil and had been shamefully overcooked, an absolute no-no for a restaurant that specialises in seafood. In addition though, the fleshy prawns were satisfactory in taste, but at $3 each left us feeling let down once we’d done the math on a recently purchased 2 kg box now languishing in our freezer at home. Seafood pasta is a favourite in our house and an obvious choice for the children. The spaghetti (not linguine/tagliatelle as anticipated) was covered in a slightly dry mixture of cubed seafood, which was difficult to identify. The Kingklip was indeed nicely grilled on top but had been whisked away before the bottom had time to finish cooking. I requested some Tartare sauce to go with the Kingklip, but the waiter had difficulty in understanding what was being asked of him, so I gave up on the third try.
The choice of desserts was a little uninspiring, though the Pudding Marie held possibilities and turned out to be not bad at all. It wasn’t too sweet and had been made with crème fraîche; always the healthier option. Between my daughter and I, it was polished off with little effort. Adequate coffees followed. Throughout the meal I had been acutely aware of the prices but was really not prepared for the financial pickle facing us when the bill came in at a whopping $138. Whilst I must admit I have paid more in other restaurants, this wasn’t worth it. Things have changed for the better in Zimbabwe in recent years, and so quickly. Sadly some restaurateurs are still living in the past.
Family Restaurant
3 Plates
Expect to spend $25 to $30 per head
50 East Road Avondale
A Taste of the seaside at The Fishmonger (2010)
I’m normally a very upbeat and positive person, but this past week has seen me on a downward trend as yet another friend is winging her way to sun-kissed, sandy beaches for a holiday by the sea. All right, I admit, I’m just plain jealous. You know the feeling: they wax on about how they are going to spend their days on the beach, and, don’t you know, they are doing the deep sea diving bit, and don’t I remember that gorgeous little café, right on the shore, waves lapping at your feet whilst you sip on Sangria and eat prawns, freshly drawn from Neptune’s pantry? Sitting here, snuggly wrapped in our landlocked country, it’s easy to catch ‘beach fever’. So, what is the cure? I’ve tried sun-bathing under a lovely palm tree in our garden, opportunistically imagining that the noise of the traffic is the crashing of the waves on that sandy beach. Sadly, however, my powers of imagination have been stretched to the limit. My best-beloved came up with an innovative solution. No, it wasn’t airline tickets to the Seychelles, it was a surprise dinner at Harare’s own Restaurant-by-the-Sea: The Fishmonger.
The warm, relaxed atmosphere of The Fishmonger is very good for the soul. You feel as if you are on holiday, even if reality is waiting outside for you. The clientèle on the evening we went out was decidedly cosmopolitan, which added to the allure of the Restaurant. You can choose whether you want to sit inside or on the verandah which, in the evening, is protected from the elements by very effective awning. Heaters were in evidence, preparing for the cold winter evenings ahead of us. Although I am not a fan of bars, the pub area of the Fishmonger is inviting. There is a lovely fireplace inside, giving the interior a cosy and warm feel.
We sat on the verandah and were shown the menu as soon as we sat down. The Specials of the day are written, in chalk, on small blackboards, so presumably they change on a regular basis. The menu offers a fairly limited range of dishes, with the emphasis, naturally, on fish dishes and seafood. For those who don’t fancy fish, there is a selection of meat dishes.
To start we chose the Garlic Chicken Livers and Prawns in Batter. The Livers were the best I have tasted in a long time. The garlic butter sauce was perfect and my plate was spotless in a very short space of time. The Prawns were encased in a light, fluffy batter and were delicious. The sauce that accompanied them, however, was not to my liking, as it was too piquant for the delicate prawns and did not enhance the taste experience. Hors d’oeuvres range in price between $4 and $8.
For our main courses, we all decided on various fish choices. The Grilled Kingklip ($18) was thoroughly enjoyed by my ‘best-beloved’, who, I must add, doesn’t normally go for the fish options on the menu. I selected the Seafood Pasta ($13), which I had hoped would be served with tagliatelle. Spaghetti did not do the dish justice. The tomato-based sauce seemed to have too much lemon in it, which unfortunately dominated the taste of the whole meal. The children were less adventurous and had the Captain’s Delight (Hake and Chips) and the Bream Special, costing $8 and $14 respectively. Both meals were slightly oily and were served with token salad, which was not a very exciting accompaniment to the meal.
The wine list at The Fishmonger is limited, but well selected to cater for all tastes. You can take your own wine and no corkage is charged. We chose a Neederberg Chardonnay which complemented our meal with its rich, buttery taste; not too sweet and thoroughly delectable.
Dessert is always high on the priority list when we dine out. The choice of desserts at The Fishmonger is not extensive, but it is more than adequate. The Chocolate Mousse received a thumbs-up from our young cocoa-connoisseur daughter. Crème Caramel, another favourite, was a little too sweet and not as creamy-smooth as it should be. The Cheesecake was unusually delicious with a crumbly biscuit-like texture. The Pudding Maria was a trifle affair, and, like its name, a bit boring. Desserts are priced at $4. A robust cup of filter coffee rounded off the meal extremely well.
The acid test: am I back to my old, optimistic self? Yes, I’m happy to report that all is well. A lovely evening at the Fishmonger Restaurant was just what I needed. The following morning I picked up the phone and spoke to my ‘holiday’ friend and genuinely wished her a wonderful holiday. Life is much better lived when you are content and happy with the things which are right on your doorstep, all you need to do is open your eyes and see them beckoning for you to enjoy them.
Family Restaurant
3 Plates
Expect to spend $20 to $30 per head
A touch of Mediterranean magic at The Fishmonger 2009
In my dining life, not as a restaurant reviewer but a normal diner, I had not frequented specialist restaurants, perhaps with the exception of two occasions when I visited the Jaipur restaurant in Belvedere, an Indian cuisine specialist. My reservations are always based on the fear that if I find the restaurant’s specialty not interesting or pleasing, I might spoil the whole occasion! Obama dollars can’t be easily experimented with! My recent visit to Fishmonger in Avondale, however, was a most memorable experience.
As the name suggests, the restaurant specialises in sea food. A quick run through the starters menu indeed prepares you for a Mediterranean treat. One can experiment with a prawn cocktail which is a dish made up of cooked, peeled and chilled shrimp or prawns served on a bed of lettuce. Garlic prawns, fried Halloumi cheese and Portuguese sardines add to the variety. If this will not awaken the shark in you, I do not know what will! The main courses range from hake and chips, to king fillet, King Klip fillet and many more options too numerous to mention. The prawn menu is also very appetising, with even the possibility of a prawn curry (I have not tasted this before; I’ve always associated curries with other meats). The menu also caters for children with a special kids’ menu, featuring chicken nuggets, hake fingers and chips. What I can assure any would-be diner at the Fishmonger, is that not everything is battered and deep fried!!
For my starter I asked for Calamari rings and I enjoyed them. This was quite a big risk considering that the last time I tried Calamari was at a general restaurant rather than a seafood specialist, and I got a rubbery, chewy mass of flavourless mush! Not so at The fishmonger. The accompanying tangy, almost pink, sauce (did not quite get round to asking the waiter what they call this) added life to the starter. My companion decided to skip the starter and went straight to ordering hake and chips. I decided to order a whole Kob, with chips and vegetables. After the waiter took my order he returned to advise that the only Kob remaining was very big, and would I still be interested in it? Of course, if the price remained the same why not? After about twenty minutes, the waiter emerged from the kitchen with two very large dinner plates which could easily pass for trays. My Kob did not find sufficient space on this “tray” and all I could say was “Oh my God...”
My companion’s hake was also a fairly large portion but quite a far cry from my portion. Considering that the difference between the two meals was a dollar, I was the undisputable winner - talk of value for money! I delved into the Kob with so much zest and the taste was awesome! The vegetables and herbs with which it was stuffed gave this whole fish dish a divine aroma and succulence, and was the perfect accompaniment. Not wanting any of the steak to remain on the bones, I immediately employed a fork, finger and knife strategy, and nothing was left to chance! It was delicious. The side serving of additional vegetables on the other hand, an uninspiring cocktail of green beans, peas and carrots, looked suspiciously as though they might have come from a just opened frozen vegetables pack and failed to add much to my wonderful Kob. I have a natural aversion for frozen vegetables!
My companion thoroughly enjoyed her meal and she described the hake as very tasty. Her only reservation was about the lack of vegetables with her meal. After our delicious mains, we were advised of the availability of ice cream for desserts, but we had certainly had our fill! As for the bar, the restaurant had a good variety of drinks, including a sizeable selection of local and imported wines. Straying from our norm, we ordered a Legacy white wine and I found it to be palatable. I am not usually a wine drinker, but I downed a good glass and a half during the meal and enjoyed it.
Fishmonger restaurant décor follows a sea and oceanic theme with artist’s impressions of various sea creatures including octopus and various kinds of fish on most sections of the wall. I even saw pictures of mermaids. The tables at the restaurant are set along the front veranda, in the main restaurant, and in the side veranda. Having all doors wide open gives excellent ventilation to the establishment. It also creates an open, friendly and relaxed feel and creating almost a beach-like mood. The outside seating is perfect for summer nights as they allow one also to enjoy the natural fresh air from the well-kept garden surrounding the restaurant.
The waiters were generally friendly, except for one small incident when one of the serving waiters got into a bit of a verbal altercation with the kitchen staff over some order that had not been done properly. No need to go into too much detail! The restaurant is clean, although the male convenience rooms could do with a little bit more sprucing up in terms of modernising the fittings and making sure that the floors are always completely dry. All said and done, we recommend The Fishmonger restaurant for lovely, relaxed family outings. It’s ideal for large parties too.
Family Restaurant
4 Plates
Expect to spend $20 to $30 per head
The Fishmonger - in search of gastronomic treasure - For a chest - full of pieces of eight 2008
One dark, hungry Harare night, we navigated our way through rough streets towards the place marked X on the map. Having tacked into East Road in Avondale, we dropped anchor outside The Fishmonger where a pleasant guard directed us to a safe berth. Ever hopeful, as Zimbabweans are by nature, we had set off to discover for ourselves if we would indeed find gastronomic treasure here. In 2007 this restaurant won the award for The Family Restaurant of the Year; in a close-fought contest, The Fishmonger had hoisted all sail and crossed the line in front of its rivals to win this prestigious prize. Now we had come to experience their winning strategy in person.
It was many years since I had last landed there, but it looked pleasantly familiar with its cheerful, marine-inspired décor, and some enthusiastic artist surely enjoyed painting the palm trees and had even more fun detailing in the strategically placed shells upon the mermaid’s chest… Mine host lacked a black patch over one eye and the only wooden legs in sight were those of the tables and chairs, our waiter had neither sailor’s cap nor the look of someone who could dance a hornpipe, but no matter, the welcome was warm and his beaming, oft-repeated thumbs-up gesture made amends for the absence of a smart naval salute and an “Aye, aye Sir”.
The menu, as one would expect, consists in the main of the contents of the fisherman’s net; fish, shell-fish and other seafood, although it also indicated that the occasional chicken and bovine beast strays onto the beach as well. But the prices! “Shiver my timbers, me hearties, many, many pieces of eight!” Had I the proverbial Poly on my shoulder, he would have opened his beak in horror, lost all his feathers in shock, and ended up almost a poly-gone at my feet. We are not exactly strangers to The Fine Art of Eating Out, and I know sea-fare is not acquired locally, but in this instance we considered setting sail immediately and heading homewards! However, hunger prevailed and we duly ordered our starters – or attempted to; it turned out that in fact no chickens had roosted on the shore that night and another alternative to a seafood starter had to be selected. The starters which did land on our table proved to be generous, appetising and attractively presented ensconced in sea-shells. They were delicious, too.
The main course came in on the next tide, with this absolutely enormous platter washing up on the table in front of me, making my eyes grow wide. I am no stranger to the Art of Just Eating either, and am not known for a shy appetite, but the whole day’s catch of calamari which was heaped before me would have fed the average Zimbabwean family for a week, and even half the quantity (at half the price) would have amply satisfied this hungry wayfarer. A smaller portion would have been far more appropriate – especially in the context of a family restaurant. The tantalising aromas rising from the platter could not be ignored though, and feeling somewhat guilty, I tucked in! It was truly delicious, succulent and tasty, but after a while I began to feel I was swimming against the current, and just after half way, I had to run up the white flag and put down my knife and fork, albeit with reluctance.
Whilst my fellow wayfarer’s hake was pleasant, it was not special – we could probably have rustled up just as enjoyable a spot of fish and chips at home - which wouldn’t then have cost close to a billion dollars.
A fine cup of coffee rounded off the meal, and having handed over the huge ransom demanded, we shipped out, full in body but empty in bank account. It was a pleasant evening, the service and the food was good, the ambience congenial, but the price? It was simply too expensive for a ‘family restaurant’, in which entry category it is rightly placed, with its plastic table cloths, cutlery and condiments in a wooden box on the table, paper serviettes, and the menu little more than a sheet of paper listing the dishes, without descriptions. No desserts were listed, nor were we offered any.
Would I go back? Definitely – if someone else were paying. It may be a gastronomic treasure, but the cost is high, and should you ever wish to treat your family there, take with you a very large chest full of the new fifty million pieces of eight!
Family Restaurant
3 Plates